Mt. Etna, a volcano located on the eastern side of Sicily, dominates the island’s skyline and its awe-inspiring peak is visible during the ferry ride from Italy’s mainland. Unfortunately, when I took the ferry in April, the day was cloudy, so I failed to notice that the top of Mt. Etna was buried in snow, rendering me completely unprepared for the six chilling hours that I spent near the volcano’s peak, huddled inside of a trinket shop, drinking red, cinnamon-flavored liquor designed to look like lava.

I’d heard stories of hiking the volcano and wanted to try it out for myself. My hotel was located in the nearby town of Catania, known for its industrial port and delicious seafood. Catania is not a pretty city, and the street venders selling skewers of grilled horsemeat made me feel like I was in another world. The seafood and lively night scene of the city were intoxicating, however, and the fritto misto I had there (a platter of fried whole fish, pieces of swordfish, calamari, whole prawns, and scallops) remains the best ever.

The weather in Catania was breezy but warm, and when I packed my bag for a daytrip to Mt. Etna, I decided to pack a jacket and an extra shirt. I also packed a picnic. If it were not for these lucky decisions, my day on Etna would have most likely resulted in my own frozen death. Buses leave from Catania’s main train station and run frequently in the summer. The two-hour ride revealed beautiful towns, countryside, and twisty, steaming plains of hardened lava, but when I noticed the snow banks closing in on either side of the bus, I began to grow concerned. Where was I headed? Antarctica?

When the bus dropped me off at a Santa’s Village-type compound, the snow was six feet deep on either side of the road. A half moon of miniature log cabins wrapped around the black tar parking lot, selling identical Mt. Etna t-shirts and Mt. Etna shot glasses. Otherwise, there was a cafeteria building and the building that runs the cable car. The cable car turned out to cost 30€ and only took passengers another quarter of a mile or so up the volcano. Since I couldn’t imagine a different scene a quarter mile up, I decided to walk the only road a little ways in each direction. The air was frigid and a thick mist of snow or smoke from the lava oozing underground made visibility nearly nonexistent. I did hike out onto a small crater to the right of the road, thoroughly soaking my shoes and pants.

All of this took about 30 minutes. Then I learned that the bus would not be returning to Catania for another five-and-a-half hours. I was completely trapped on Mt. Etna. Since hiking was not an option, I took refuge in the cafeteria for the duration, and watched high school kids have snow ball fights. When the bus finally did leave, most of the wet and cold passengers had been waiting for two hours in the cafeteria.

Hiking Etna in the summer might be a great experience, but I wouldn’t recommend it in the winter unless you are prepared to snowshoe amongst lava-flows.