It’s 8:42 am, and hiking is out of the question. I’m bummed. The peaks of the Alps are some of the most stunning in the world, but everything’s telling me to stay put in Verona: real-time local weather forecasts and live video feeds show rain, and it’s predicted to get worse. As much as I […]

The rain is teasing us. It stops, the sun almost shines, then it pours buckets. Verona’s elegant riverside streets are vibrant with leafy maples and the river is running high. I’ve never been here in winter. To me, this is the city of perpetual spring, romantic and refined; above ground tombs give it an enigmatic […]

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