John and I came to Athens, the birthplace of Western democracy, to marvel at ancient ruins and sites of mythology. Sure enough, they were incredible (though I actually found more Greek temples, in better condition, on Sicily than in Greece). But just as amazing was the vibrant modern life that swirled around the old stone […]

We arrived at sunset.  The Temple of Apollo, now just a remnant of the original, ancient edifice, clung to a rocky outcrop just north of the port. We walked out along the quay to see the stone pillars, backlit against the pomegranate-red sunset. Others stood in small groups viewing the ruins. The only sound was of the waves cutting against […]

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