I’m writing poolside at the Relais Riserva di Fizzano resort in Tuscany’s Chianti region. “Resort” isn’t really the right word. The enclave of luxury apartments was once a medieval village. Located on top of one of the tallest hills around, its grounds offer a panoramic view of Tuscany’s countryside, hills of cascading grapevines included. Architect […]
Last night, to celebrate the dollar’s dramatic comeback against the euro, Kristin and I scoured Florence for the famous bistecca alla fiorentina. Made from a unique breed of cow, Chianina, the steak is served in huge slabs of between 1.5 lbs and 3 lbs, and traditionally cooked al sangue, which means “bloody.” I say “scoured” […]
For the next seven days, I’ll be living between two giant mountains in the Lazio region, without running water or electricity. I feel like a contestant on Survivor—just me, my Mac-book, and nature. There’s a rolling field brimming with fig, peach, cotton apple, and olive trees; the sun sets between the mountains at the far […]
This morning, we woke up and said goodbye to the city of Lecce. We have two bicycles, only one of which has gears (profuse apologies to my girlfriend. Kristen). We’ve given our backpacks to a friend who we will meet up with in the city of Mesagne. Fortunately, bicycling in the south of Puglia isn’t […]
I wanted to learn more about Umbria’s traditional foods, especially that strange Norcian mortadella with the chunk of mystery meat inside. When I found the store, Il Parma Delizie Alimentari, with a large man carving meat behind the counter, I knew I had the right place.
Because we arrived in the dark, it wasn’t until this morning that I discovered the unique beauty of the countryside that surrounds us in Ceglie. Located in Italy’s middle-Puglia, it is hillier than the south, with clumps of pine forest. My friends, with whom we will stay, have renovated an old farmhouse. The farmhouses in Puglia are […]
Florence is alive with markets, day in and day-out you will find several Florence markets ready for you to discover. The San Lorenzo market, in the heart of Florence, is a swarm of colors and scents. At the Mercato Centrale (the Food market in San Lorenzo) we’re talking artisan breads of all shapes and sizes; […]
What a day. Last night, Kristin and I met our fellow companions on the Abruzzo Cibus Culinary Tours . The managing director of the tour, Massimo Criscio, called us down to dinner, and at the table we met four fabulous Italian-American women from Joy-zee (aka New Jersey, for all non-Joyzee folks). One woman’s family was […]
Yesterday was one of my favorite days of the year: Cantine Aperte. A countrywide wine tasting, the event’s name literally means “Open Wineries.” I started just outside of the Montefalco region, a D.O.C.G. region that produces wines made with the Sagrantino grape. The word sagra means festival or party, so I like to think of […]