In Greece, classical civilization threads all aspects of daily life. Broken Ionic columns lie in everyone’s backyard, and the bus maps are written in the language of the philosophers. But Crete, the largest island in Greece, has more than just a Platonic heritage. Crete was once the heart of the Minoan civilization, a Bronze Age matriarchy that ruled […]

A one-hour flight from Athens to Crete, the largest of the Greek islands, dropped us near Heraklion, a bustling, noisy town I didn’t expect to like. But who can resist those exuberant Greeks, who love to talk? Every square and every cafe-bar was crammed with coffee-and beer-drinkers watching the scene and talking endlessly to each […]

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